Part British schoolgirl via knife-pleated wrap skirts and layered cardigans; part lady with a country house, the kind who needs a Thirties-style, draped evening gown worn with a lavish crystal necklace. In her quest to make the schoolgirl modern, Wang turned Gothic, working in a palette of black, navy and gray and ample dyed-to-match goat fur that appeared on the hood of felt and leather anoraks and layered over skirts — all of it detachable. These were sophisticated coeds whose luxurious dark side made a strong counterpoint to the vintage glamour of Wang’s fancier fare: a washed silk gown in dramatic plum was asymmetrically draped and ruched at the waist, and a textured gold cocktail dress decorated with shimmering crystal epaulets.

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